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5 Types of Chikankari Stitches: Bakhiya, Phanda, Ghaas Patti & More Explained

by Arsh Chikankari 07 May 2025
5 Types of Chikankari Stitches: Bakhiya, Phanda, Ghaas Patti & More Explained

Why Chikankari is So Adored?

Chikankari is an embroidery made with love and patience. Born in the royal courts of Lucknow, it’s known for its elegance, fine handwork, and timeless charm. At Arsh Chikankari, we celebrate this legacy every single day through handcrafted pieces made by skilled artisans.

Let’s dive deeper into the most popular types of Chikankari stitches, where each one has a story to tell.

1. Bakhiya (Shadow Work)

Also known as shadow work, this is one of the most classic stitches in Chikankari.

  • Done from the back of the fabric

  • Creates a soft, shadow-like effect on the front

  • Perfect for lightweight fabrics like muslin and georgette

  • Spot beautiful Bakhiya work in many Arsh Chikankari kurtis and dupattas

  • Ideal for those who love a minimal yet elegant look

2. Phanda (Dot Knots)

Tiny but powerful — Phanda adds that extra charm to your outfit.

  • Looks like tiny pearl-shaped knots

  • Commonly used in the centers of flowers or bootis

  • Adds a delicate, dotted texture across the fabric

  • We love using Phanda to create intricate floral motifs at Arsh Chikankari


3. Ghaas Patti (Leaf Motif Stitch)

This one’s a true labor of love — and a favorite in festive pieces.

  • Resembles leaf blades or grassy vines

  • Made using buttonhole stitches at an angle

  • Adds a natural flow and rich texture to any design

  • At Arsh Chikankari, we use Ghaas Patti to craft sarees, anarkalis, and dupattas that feel like wearable art

4. Murri (Rice-Grain Stitch)

A small stitch with a big impact.

  • Shaped like tiny grains of rice

  • Used to fill petals, borders, or fine detailing

  • Brings a structured and slightly raised finish

  • Found in many of our premium hand-embroidered kurtas and unstitched sets

5. Jali Work (Mesh or Net Work)

Rare and royal — this stitch is a masterpiece in itself.

  • Looks like a lace or mesh net

  • Made by separating threads without cutting them

  • One of the most difficult and time-consuming stitches

  • Found in exclusive heirloom pieces at Arsh Chikankari — perfect for bridal and festive wear

Final Thoughts: It’s All in the Details

Each stitch in Chikankari holds a story, a mood, and a purpose. At Arsh Chikankari, we’re proud to preserve and promote these hand-embroidery techniques that have been passed down through generations.

Whether it’s the softness of Bakhiya, the delicacy of Phanda, or the artistry of Jali work — you’re not just wearing a garment, you’re wearing a piece of heritage.

Want to explore handcrafted Chikankari outfits made with love and legacy?
Browse our collection at Arsh Chikankari: www.arshchikan.com

 

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