India is a country of diversity, diversity in religion, culture, languages and food. India is a country of colors reshaped in a variety of designs and architecture. Out of the many cities in India, Lucknow is not only a city of “Nawabs” but also Lucknow has made its mark for its hand embroidery and Chikankari has been one embroidery that is synonymous to the craft of Lucknow. Chikankari is a very delicate and intricate shadow work type of embroidery.
The history of Chikankari comes back from the 3rd century where the Mughals king, Jahangir with his wife Noor Jahan acknowledged the beauty of Chikankari also known as “shadow craft” as the one of the most sophisticated yet simple and comfortable. The delicate and fine crafting by thin needle on pure and finest piece of fabrics became the hallmark of Chikankari. Initially the embroidery was done using white yarn, on colorless muslins, known as Tanzeb. However today, Georgette, Chiffon, Cotton and other fine fabrics are also being used. From being an embellishment used primarily for decorating clothes, Chikankari embroidery work of Lucknow has now spread to cushion covers, pillow covers, table linen and so on.
What makes it different from the rest of embroideries?
1) Chikankari work has a very light, gossamer - like quality. This makes it very suitable for the seemingly hot climate of the northern plain region. It can be assumed that Chikankari, using sheer fabrics evolved as the logical answer to the problem of keeping cool and also providing adornment.
2) Chikankari is a very fine artwork done by professionals in the remote areas of the town. The crafting is done by both men and women and it promotes the lost art of handloom in the society, giving these artisans a source of income and survival.
